{"id":147,"date":"2017-05-25T17:48:48","date_gmt":"2017-05-25T14:48:48","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/petitsboutsvoyageurs.com\/?p=147"},"modified":"2019-10-25T18:37:57","modified_gmt":"2019-10-25T15:37:57","slug":"iran-teheran","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/petitsboutsvoyageurs.com\/index.php\/2017\/05\/25\/iran-teheran\/","title":{"rendered":"Iran: T\u00e9h\u00e9ran"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Ce matin pas le temps de tra\u00eener au lit. Nous avons un programme de visites charg\u00e9. Direction le Mus\u00e9e\u00a0National<\/strong> pour y voir en particulier la collection pr\u00e9-Islamic.<\/strong> L\u2019occasion de montrer \u00e0 Maminou des fresques de Darius<\/strong> personnage embl\u00e9matique de la p\u00e9riode achemenide<\/strong>. En r\u00e9alit\u00e9 qu\u2019une seule fresque visible au mus\u00e9e beaucoup plus nous attendent \u00e0 Pers\u00e9polis<\/strong>.<\/p>

Mais les grands couteaux aiguis\u00e9s et un squelette retiendront toute son attention.<\/p>

Et dans le mus\u00e9e pas d\u2019ascenseur. Il faudra tout porter pour acc\u00e9der au 1er. Mais comme nous le dit de mani\u00e8re tr\u00e8s po\u00e9tique une des guides du mus\u00e9e \u00ab\u00a0Angels can fly\u00a0\u00bb ( les anges peuvent voler ).<\/p>

Apr\u00e8s le mus\u00e9e nous fl\u00e2nons tranquillement vers le Palais du Golestan<\/strong> qui se trouve \u00e0 proximit\u00e9. Quelle architecture \u00e0 couper le souffle! Il est construit autour d\u2019un jardin compos\u00e9 de bassins\u00a0et de zones plant\u00e9es. La visite vaut vraiment le d\u00e9tour. Il y a plusieurs b\u00e2timents \u00e0 visiter au choix. La visite compl\u00e8te revient \u00e0 environ 940000 rials soit 20 euros.<\/em>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

La poussette c\u2019est bien pratique mais \u00e0 T\u00e9h\u00e9ran malgr\u00e9 de larges trottoirs ils finissent presque tous par des pyl\u00f4nes rapproch\u00e9s qui ne permettent pas le passage de notre engin. Oblig\u00e9 de la soulever pour pouvoir passer.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Que dire des passages pi\u00e9tons qui existent bel et bien mais comment dire\u2026il faudrait que les voitures laissent les pi\u00e9tons traverser! Bon on se lance\u2026non finalement on attend le bon moment sauf qu\u2019en observant ce qui se passe il n\u2019y a pas de bon moment. Les pi\u00e9tons s\u2019\u00e9lancent et se faufilent entre les voitures. Pas un v\u00e9hicule ne s\u2019arr\u00eate.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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C\u2019est au pi\u00e9ton de slalomer. Les voitures et les motos arrivent de toute part. On d\u00e9cide de se lancer. La poussette est \u00e0 hauteur des pots d\u2019\u00e9chappement, c\u2019est pas g\u00e9nial mais pas le choix.<\/p>

\u00a0T\u00e9h\u00e9ran est l\u2019une des villes les plus pollu\u00e9es au monde et on le sent tr\u00e8s vite. Aucune r\u00e9glementation en vigueur concernant les gaz polluants. Les pots d\u2019\u00e9chappement crachent leur poison \u00e0 volont\u00e9 et rien que pour \u00e7a, il vaut mieux ne pas s\u2019attarder en ville. Finalement, on se lance, papa pousse la poussette, je d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de porter Maminou \u00e0 bout de bras tout en suppliant les conducteurs de nous \u00e9pargner. Certains nous ferons m\u00eame un signe de t\u00eate pour nous signifier qu\u2019ils veulent bien nous laisser en vie. Ouf! On a travers\u00e9 non sans se jurer de ne plus recommencer!<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Nous quittons\u00a0T\u00e9h\u00e9ran<\/strong>\u00a0vers 16:30 pour\u00a0Kashan<\/strong>. Nous avons choisi de louer une voiture avec si\u00e8ges autos pour tout nos d\u00e9placements dans le pays. Papa va conduire. Nous prendrons des guides au gr\u00e9 des visites \u00e0 chaque \u00e9tape. En chemin, j\u2019insiste pour que nous nous arr\u00eations \u00e0\u00a0Qom.<\/strong>\u00a0J\u2019ai tr\u00e8s envie de visiter l\u2019un des hauts lieux de p\u00e8lerinage des chiites.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Ce n\u2019est que vers 20h que nous arrivons enfin au sanctuaire apr\u00e8s avoir fait le tour de la ville \u00e0 la recherche de l\u2019entr\u00e9e. Tout est indiqu\u00e9 pour y acc\u00e9der mais notre GPS indiquait un autre chemin.<\/p>

Pour entrer dans le sanctuaire, le tchador<\/strong> est obligatoire. Je n\u2019en ai pas mais il possible de le louer en laissant sa carte d\u2019identit\u00e9 comme caution . Une fois dedans je suis surprise par la foule. C\u2019est l\u2019heure de la pri\u00e8re du coucher du soleil et la ferveur des croyants est palpable. Aucune animosit\u00e9 \u00e0 mon \u00e9gard m\u00eame si je prends des photos et des vid\u00e9os. Je me faufile rapidement pour me rapprocher du fameux tombeau de Fatema<\/strong>. Les femmes s\u2019agglutine pour toucher le tombeau et r\u00e9citer des versets coraniques. La luminosit\u00e9 est \u00e9clatante. Je suis contente d\u2019avoir pu voir \u00e7a. Je m\u2019attendais \u00e0 une certaine agressivit\u00e9 car Qom<\/strong> \u00e0 la r\u00e9putation d\u2019\u00eatre conservative <\/strong>et j\u2019avais lu que l\u2019entr\u00e9e aux horaires des pri\u00e8res n\u2019\u00e9tait autoris\u00e9e qu\u2019aux musulmans. Cependant, personne ne m\u2019a demand\u00e9 de justifier ma religion.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

De plus, les femmes \u00e0 l\u2019entr\u00e9e charg\u00e9e de la s\u00e9curit\u00e9 ont \u00e9t\u00e9 particuli\u00e8rement amus\u00e9e par le fait que je ne sache pas mettre mon tchador. Les cheveux apparants personne n\u2019est venue me remettre \u00e0 l\u2019ordre. Aucune Pasdar<\/strong> aux alentours. J’\u00e9tais loin des clich\u00e9s que j’avais notamment suite \u00e0 la lecture du roman de Betty Mahmoody. \u00a0Jusque l\u00e0 , je n\u2019ai vu que des iraniens particuli\u00e8rement attentionn\u00e9s, serviables aimables et souriants.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Nous avons tard\u00e9 il nous faut vite reprendre la route pour arriver \u00e0 Kashan<\/strong>. Sur la route, nous faisons une halte dans l\u2019un des restaurants qui bordent l\u2019autoroute. Un restau-route quoi!<\/p>

Nous arrivons ext\u00e9nu\u00e9s vers 23h \u00e0 notre h\u00f4tel de charme \u00e0 Kashan<\/strong>. Notre chambre est confortable et coquette. Il faut prendre les bains et se coucher. Et toujours pas de lit de b\u00e9b\u00e9!<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Ce matin pas le temps de tra\u00eener au lit. Nous avons un programme de visites charg\u00e9. Direction le Mus\u00e9e\u00a0National pour y voir […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":158,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9,3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-147","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-all-posts","category-asie"],"yoast_head":"\nIran: T\u00e9h\u00e9ran - Petits Bouts Voyageurs<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/petitsboutsvoyageurs.com\/index.php\/2017\/05\/25\/iran-teheran\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Iran: T\u00e9h\u00e9ran - Petits Bouts Voyageurs\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Ce matin pas le temps de tra\u00eener au lit. 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